I can now say that I’ve skiied in 2/3rds of India’s ski resorts.
Sounds like a lot but India has just 3 ski resorts! Auli in Uttaranchal, Solan valley in Himachal and Gulmarg in Kashmir.
I just got back from a trip to Gulmarg and Srinagar with my brother Gaurav and three of his UNICEF colleagues. It was a good trip, more so for the great company, clean air and break from urban surroundings than for the skiing itself. We had two full skiing days in Gulmarg but it took me the better part of the first day to rediscover my ski legs and it was snowing really hard on the second day.

The amazing thing about the beginner’s ski slopes in Gulmarg is that they are actually a golf course from spring to the onset of winters. It’s a pretty good idea to use the space for both purposes!
We barely managed to get out of Gulmarg in near blizzard-like conditions on Saturday evening. Srinagar was fantastic — we stayed in a gorgeous houseboat in the Dal Lake. Frankly, we were all expecting something pretty dingy — after living in India, you get used to being cynical about everything and particularly of pimps who promise tourists the moon — but we were astonished by the beauty of the boat and the graciousness of the host.
The boat is called the Golden Apple. If you’re going to Srinagar for a visit, I strongly recommend at least a night on this boat. The prices are fairly reasonable — we paid Rs 4000 total among the five of us for one night’s stay, but I imagine that prices for a single person or even a couple will be much higher per person.
Security forces are everywhere in Srinagar, Gulmarg and en-route. Media reports say that Kashmir has become much safer in the past year and many locals endorsed the view. It seems like the induction of the CRPF in place of the army and BSF has made a significant difference, as have elections in the past two years.
One of my unforgettable memories from Gulmarg is a policeman with an AK-47 rifle posted at the top of every ski slope! Gulmarg is very safe though — there are more foreign tourists there than Indians, and most of them are there for serious off-piste skiing and snowboarding. Gulmarg is still a relatively undeveloped ski resort and I guess a lot of serious skiers and snowboarders are drawn to it for precisely that reason.
Carlotta and Alistair, thanks for organizing the trip! It was good fun — we should do this again.
Photos from this trip are available on my Flickr photostream.
Information on skiing in Gulmarg is available at kashmiralpine.com.
